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Thread: "Teak Deck WS42"

12,268 posts on 2,444 threads   •   From Mar 07, 2004 - Jan 08, 2012


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Teak Deck WS42

David and Monica Chandler

The teak deck is in serious need of repair or replacement. All of the experts (Surveyor, Broker) have recommended removal. I'm considering replacing it with synthetic teak decking. I'd like to do a cost estimate for replacement.
Do you have the data on how many sq/ft of area the deck covers?
What are your ideas on teak repair vs synthetic deck installation.

Tom Crank

Teak decks, you either love them or hate them. I removed my deck boards and was able to get consistent clean material at about 1/2" using a thickness planer. I then reinstalled the boards using Teak Decking Systems fitting epoxy and Seam Caulk. Looks great, no more screw holes and a fairly easy project (in boat project terms). This assumes of course that the deck core is in good shape. Otherwise a less easy project.

Tom and Barb Koehl

Capn Tom, it looks like I'm going to go the same route. My W32 teak decks were nasty and I have a couple of small areas that I suspect have core damage. I spent about 100 hours removing the old caulking, taking it all down to good wood, but now I think it's just best to pull the entire deck, repair the core issues, epoxy the screw holes, and glue the teak back down. Hopefully, after running the backsides through a planer to get the bedding off I'll still have plenty of wood and it will just be a numbered jigsaw puzzle with new bungs but no screws to worry about. I had considered 5200 to bond it, but now I'm not so sure. Is the "fitting epoxy" superior for this job?

Tom Crank

I can't say that it is superior. Only time will tell. My thoughts on 5200 are that it would be more expensive and take much longer to cure. If I were to use it I would trowel it on with a notched trowel to ensure that there were no voids where water could collect. The bedding compound under my teak had failed completely but I still did not have any core issues except maybe an inch aroud each deck fill. If you have already sanded down to good wood on top you shouldn't have a thickness issue after just planing off the old bedding compound. If you are losing wood just use a carbide scraper to clean up the bottoms. I found working in sections ie forward, starboard side, etc. made it easy to keep the jigsaw puzzle straight. Just number the boards with small labels or if you aren't planing the tops just write on the board. Depending on how much material was removed during sanding you may need to cut the caulking groves deeper. One last thought, If you plan to keep your decks oiled use graphite thickened epoxy as the seam compound as most oil finishes will attack polysulphide caulk.

Tom and Barb Koehl

Thanks for the tips. I took a 1/4 inch chisel and regroved each seam as I was removing the caulk (I don't think my knees will ever be the same again!). They are now 1/4" wide x 1/4" deep. My deck doesn't creak or pop, it's just feeling a bit more "giving" in a couple of small areas on the foc's'le and when I pulled the Sampson posts I found that the portside post had worked enough to let water damage the balsa core on two sides. Did the Teak Deck Systems epoxy adhesive go on easily? Did you have any problems getting your old teak deck up? I haven't tried to pull it yet and thought I might start with the small triangle just aft of the lazarette. I'm deathly afraid of damaging the teak taking it up. If I was made of money I wouldn't care, but I'm trying to stick to a reasonable budget.

Rich Morpurgo

A note about teak decking system's adhesive. It is made by fiberglass coatings inc in SW florida. It is their product called "superbond".

FCI is a good way to save money, Their other products and epoxy is very good, and will save alot of money.

Tom and Barb Koehl

Rich, Thanks, and are you back in Bloomington or in Florida? We need to hook up some time and talk over a beer or three. I'm just in Fort Wayne.

Rich Morpurgo

yep, I am in bloomington. I am going to muncie tomorrow to pick up something. Are you free?

email me. (click my name in the post).


Tom Crank

Tom, What the hell are we all doing landlocked? I'm in Northern Kentucky. My deck peeled right up. My seam caulk was still in place so I used a utility knife to cut the caulk around the sections I had identified and took it up in large sheets. Removing the screws wasn't much fun as they were slotted so I had to do them by hand. On my boat the section aft of the lazarette was a single board with decorative caulking grooves routed in. The epoxy is a bit stiff when mixing but once it heats up a bit while activating the consistency is workable. It has the consitency of melted caramel so it is messier than West. Keep a rag and some acetone handy for quick cleanup. Open time seamed to be about an hour in direct sun 90 degrees if I got it troweled out quickly. Bottome line is this is a tough project but it doesn't require any special skill and reusing existing wood I had about $500 in the job. If you like teak decks I'd go for it.

Tom and Barb Koehl

Tom, Thanks for the encouragement! As for the being landlocked, maybe after global warming melts the icecaps we'll have nice lakeshore property! I retired last June and we plan to hoist anchor and move to the Carolinas once the boat is finished. We don't like snow (it should be visited) but I will only pay for one more transport to Lake Michigan. Where do you keep your boat? Drop me an email off-list and perhaps we can rendezvous this winter somewhere around Bloomington. tkoehl2769@comcast.net

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