Westsail Owners Alliance - Thread: "Hull To Deck Joint; Post #625 Hull"
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Thread: "Hull To Deck Joint; Post #625 Hull"

12,268 posts on 2,444 threads   •   From Mar 07, 2004 - Jan 08, 2012


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Hull To Deck Joint; Post #625 Hull

Randell 'Randy' Kocurek

I read in your manual, I think, that at the time Westsail increased the headroom in its 32, it also changed the hull making technique. Seems they changed from a through bolt and sealed hull/deck joint and went to a totally ecapsulated one piece hull, doing away with the split on the stem, as well, and adding another deck hatch amidships. Did I miss that or am I right? If so, are the pre-625 hull/deck joints stronger, better, the same, or what, compared to the later ones? I would hate to give up that excellent earlier joint for extra, but nonessential, headroom. Have a great day!

Bud Taplin

The later boats did have a one piece hull, which eliminated the gelcoat touchup on the centerline seam. The layup was the same. The hull to deck joint was also the same as all the boats after about #100, when the company went to a fiberglass hull flange rather than a mahogany sheer clamp.

Dave Kall

Except on the East coast facility, those were all two piece.


Can this be better clarified for me? How do I determine where my hull came from (WSSK 0442 0775)?

If the later boats (which I read to mean all boats after hull # 100) are a one piece hull, then why are we all needing to caulk and recaulk the caprail?

Aaron Norlund


Hulls from around #100-625 on the west coast were laid up as if someone cut the boat down the centerline. Then they were glassed together. So "\" and "/" became "V". Later, the hulls were molded as a "V" up front instead of being put together.

The "deck" is not really part of the "hull"; they were bolted onto the completed hull.

Hope this helps!

Aaron N.


OK, thanks, that clears that up, but the hull to deck joint is the same on all WS32's?

I'm gathering that some of us have a void under the cap rail and some of us don't. I know the PO of my boat considered the caulking of the cap rail and annual event or biannual at best.

Bud Taplin

Hull #442 would have a two piece hull, and a fiberglass flange on the hull to bolt the deck to. Check out Page D-2 of my Westsail Service Manual to understand how the hull and deck are attached.
Page #D-1 describes the hull numbers and how to tell where the boat was laminated.


First of all, please understand that the manual makes my eyes cross.
Now, IF, I've read it all correctly, my hull has the centerline seam and the hull to deck joint is the bottom left picture, two upside down L's overlapping.

So...why is it leaking?

Jay Bietz

Hi Balance:


To clarify the cap rail leaking issues on Pygmalion #567 use the link above and choose the album Cap rail ...

I just uploaded some photo's of the work I've done on Pygmalion -- No leaks now!!

Cheers and hope this helps.

Tom Crank

It will leak if the sealant has failed in the joint between the edge of the deck flange and the hull. The caprail can be removed and the gap recaulked. This should last many many years. Also caulk the underside of the caprail where it meets the hull. This will prevent water from getting under the caprail. Other possible sources of leaks that are sometimes misattributed to the caprail are the side deck scupper drains, the penetration for the bolts of the headsail sheet tracks, stanchion bases, and mooring cleats. Not that it is always helpful but where are you seeing evidence of the leaks?


Jay, thanks for the pictures. They remind me of an unanswered question for you. Where did you get your propane lockers? They are obviously custom made?

Tom, I have many leaks. I pulled out most of the caulking this weekend (on the inboard side). I will recaulk and answer this question then - otherwise it's all just guessing. I just put up another question about mast boots as I seem to have one coming from that area. Not a lot of water anywhere, puddles. All combined more than in the bilge.


Jay, I sent you an email.

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