Westsail Owners Alliance - Thread: "Caprail Replacement On W42"
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Thread: "Caprail Replacement On W42"

12,268 posts on 2,444 threads   •   From Mar 07, 2004 - Jan 08, 2012

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Caprail Replacement On W42


nick cherney (Guest)

the teak caprail on our W42 has been aggresively sanded over the years and a lot of the fasteners are now exposed which means obviously leaking. Bud, do you have anything to help? In my deluded dreams you would mail me the already shaped teak pieces which I would install, but then again in that world I am so rich I could just pay someone else to do all this. In a more realistic world I am wondering if you have drawings or something. Should I simply pull off the old pieces and copy them? Is there some advantages to choosing teak over aluminum or vice versa? when I pull off the cap rail, can I put down some thin roving over the hull to deck joint to seal it up before putting the new caprail on? What about just pulling out all the exposed fasteners, resetting them with new dolphinite or some such product, then sealing where the caprail joins teh deck and not pulling off the teak at all? I am sure there are lots of ideas out there and I would love to hear them!


nick cherney (Guest)

thank you very much for the offer, I will do that!


Dave Kall
(Member)

I just redid our caprails on a 42. You're welcome to email me: dkall@pasco.k12.fl.us for specifics and any pics if you want.


Jeff Holemo

That would be "Fluid Motion"
http://www.geocities.com/fluidmotion2/home.html
That guy is an awesome carpenter.


Odyssey

The web site I think Mike is talking about is http://www.geocities.com/fluidmotion2/home.html Great site! I'm also making new caprails later this year. I saved the old one's for patterns but have been debating how to make the curved pieces. The approach that Kevin used on Fluid Motion looks like a great solution.

When I pulled the old caprail off, actually they all but fell off once the screws were removed, I dug out the old caulking. I refilled the area with 5200 (not sure I'd do that again in hind sight) and then glassed over the top. I've got a few bumpy areas that I'll sand out and then add another couple of layers of fiberglass cloth before putting the new caprails on.

The cost of teak is depressing. A friend used to get teak at http://www.maritimewoodproducts.com/ They used to have priceing for teak lumber on line. Not anymore but it is one place that I'll check when the time comes. Two other places that I'll check are http://stangelohardwoods.com/ and http://www.worldpanel.com/ If anyone knows of any other sources for rough sawn teak lumber I'd be interested in finding out.
Jeff


Peter Sherman

Last summer I replaced my rubrails (the previous owner removed them and they were trashed) I had no qualms about using IPE. In my oppinion it has all the qualities of teak at a fraction of the cost. It's heavier and harder, but holds fasteners better and mills nice, although messy but so's teak. When it is oiled or let to gray it is very hard to tell the difference.I think if it weren't so heavy you would see a lot more of it in boat building.Re: weight, for rubrails and the like on a Westsail I don't think the extra weight will tip the scales. A while back I calculated what the extra weight would be if it were used for applied decking, and it was equivalent to having a couple of 5 year old kids on deck.


Jeff Holemo

Has anyone considered using mahogany for their caprails? It is about a third the cost of teak, it is still available in relatively large pieces, and is probably one of the prettiest, if not the prettiest, woods when finished bright.


Mike McCoy

The advantage of teak over aluminum is it isn't nearly as ugly ;)

The downside of course is the expense. For 'funs/giggles' I calculated the cost to replace the caprails on my W32 and it was around $700. Still, if it were me I'd definately go with teak.

One thing I'm pretty sure you'll have to do is use laminated teak for the curved pieces at bow/stern. Originally they were fashioned from one large (thick) piece of teak but it would be prohibitively expensive to do it that way today (maybe unless you sail to Burma ;)

I'd also suspect you should/would need to use your current caprails as patterns.

There is an excellent website of a W32 being refitted in New Zeland that cover replacing the caprails and shoring up the hull/deck joint (with numerous photos). I'm sure the approach would be very similar for a W42.

Can someone help? I can't remember the name of the boat or the URL (a Yahoo website).


Dave Kall
(Member)

In the old days you would find Mahogany on places like the caprails. I wouldn't do it now, even if it was free. Teak is much easier to work, so your time to work Mahogaony is more. Mahogany isn't hard but even carbide bits will burn the wood requireing more sanding. Tool marks show much more requiring more sanding and you must keep varnish on it and if any of the varnish breaks through; SAND like hell to get back to the pretty wood. As for varnish, with the open grain of Mahogony you'll initially use a lot more (requiring oddly more time). The only two good things about Mahogony are 1) it's cheaper and 2) caulking will more than likely hold better to it. I would say the looks are about equal for a finished product.

When we redid our caprails I epoxy sealed the undersides so they would caulk better with out the oil effecting the adheasion.

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