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Thread: "Caps For Original Groco Seacocks"

12,268 posts on 2,444 threads   •   From Mar 07, 2004 - Jan 08, 2012

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Caps For Original Groco Seacocks


Butch Richard

Hi Bud,

I want to remove the hoses in the head because I'm going to be putting in a composting toilet. I was told that I should cap the seacoks. Where might I find some? I've a couple of really big ones and a small one. I don't know the exact sizes.



Ralph and Sandra Weiland

I've just finished installing an Air Head and do not like the looks of the now disused sea cocks. Am putting a piece of hose on each, and plugging the hoses until next haul out when I can remove permanently both the discharge and intake cocks altogether. Will probably move the cockpit drains to above the waterline at the same time. The only seacock necessary is the raw water intake to the engine's heat exchanger --- the rest will go, leaving me with one seacock below the waterline and three through-hulls above (2 cockpit drains + air discharge from head).


Don Montgomery and Lana Nelson

Where will your sinks drain go?????


Jeff Matthiae

Butch,

The seacocks are measured in pipe sizes. The head discharge is most likely 1-1/2" NPT, the head pickup 3/4" NPT. I'm guessing that the other large one is the sink drain? That is probably 1-1/2 also but could be 1-1/4 or 1.

When I first splashed my boat I had a couple of seacocks in that I hadn't hooked up the plumbing yet. I used the nylon plugs like the ones (picture D) found on P.346 of the current West Marine catalog. West part # 308189 for the 1-1/2". You can probably find similar at Lowes, etc.

Of course even with the plug close the seacock.

Jeff


Stephen and Lu Ann Yoder

Butch,
I'm in the same boat as you (so to speak). My waste seacock was 1-1/4" and I found a threaded bronze cap at Englund Marine in Newport, OR. West Marine has them: http://tinyurl.com/njjucl .

Along the same subject, anyone know of a good article or primer on how to go about removing an unwanted thru-hull?

-Steve


Norm Rhines

Stephen:

Look under the following WOA link.

http://www.westsail.org/discus/messages/11/2004.html" id="post_1233785402

Copy all the way to the last 2. Jay has a good write up on his thruhull removal and glassing over. ( I think he also had something written up in the last windblown.)

Norm


Stephen and Lu Ann Yoder

Thanks, Norm. Now that you mention it, I do remember seeing something in the last Windblown. I read so much boat stuff it's hard to remember where I read something. I'll also check out the link.

-Steve


Butch Richard

Thanks fellas,

I think the brass caps are the ticket. I guessed that I should be able to find something like that, but figured it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Anyway, I recently had my boat hauled for a bottom job and had my seacocks checked by surveyors and the boatyard guys. They assured me that they are in good condition. I was thinking of taking them all out, exactly like Ralph did. But I decided to keep them for awhile. Although I going to install AirHead Composter toilet too, I may decide to do something different down the line. Hmmm, on second thought, if I did, by that time, I may need or consider new seacocks anyway. Well, something to think about next haul out.

Oh, and just to add my thoughts, I figure a sink drain into a bucket whenever seldom used isn't that much effort.


Bud Taplin
(Member)

You can use a standard bronze pipe cap to close off an unused seacock. Put some thread sealant on it and screw it down. The thread on pipe is tapered, and on the seacock is straight, but they will match, only not go on too far. That's the reason for the sealant.


Ralph and Sandra Weiland

Indeed, I miscounted seacocks. The one that takes wastewater from the sink in the head stays because it also takes any water that enters the Air Head's discharge air line. I have a water separator just before the air through-hull that dumps any entering water into the sink drain before it can get at the fan and/or into the Air Head itself. I am also leaving the galley sink drain in place. Still, getting rid of two seacocks is a step in the right direction, and if inherent laziness wasn't an ever-present issue, a bucket below the sinks would be a very workable route to removing yet two more seacocks. And the Air Head has eliminated a maze of plumbing, hoses, and tankage. Very pleased with the results.


Bud Taplin
(Member)

You could also drain the galley sink into a small sealed sump box located in the bilge sump, with a submersible electric pump in it that pumps the water out to a tee in the bilge pump outlet fitting at the hullside.


Don Montgomery and Lana Nelson

Bud,
Is there a concern that the cockpit could load with water if severely heeled when using an above waterline drain without a seacock? I like the idea but have this concern.

Don


Jeff Matthiae

Either I'm confused or Bud and Don are talking about two different things.

A drain line for the bilge or a sump should have a vented loop that is always above the waterline.

The cockpit drain line would not drain properly if it is taken up into the bulwark.

Don, after reading some of the other postings I'm in the process of moving my cockpit drain lines aft and above the water line. It shouldn't make any difference when healing as the old thru-hull was always below the waterline. Given the location of the cockpit drain I think the stern would really have to be pushed down for it to get below the waterline, even when healed over.

Even with the new cockpit drain thru-hull location being above the waterline I'm still using seacocks.

Jeff


Bud Taplin
(Member)

The hullside drain line should loop up to the top of the bulwark level then back down to the outlet. That should prevent back siphoning.


Bud Taplin
(Member)

The hose going up into the bulwark would be the bilge pump hose, not the cockpit drain line.


Randell 'Randy' Kocurek

Butch,
You made a good decision about leaving them in my opinion. I just pulled and glassed over two through hull fittings on my boat. That was a big job, and I still wonder whether I should have left them. Still, I'm with you, generally, the fewer holes the better.


Butch Richard

Hi Fellaz,

Still trying to get this phase done. Got back burnered due to a whole bunch of home remoldeling 'cause of some Gustov damage. Kitchen and living room totally demoed. Just got the living finished. Fighting off contractors and insurance left and right. Boy, what a stressfull ordeal. Anyway, Bud, you mentioned using pipe sealant. Any pariticular kind you might recommend? West Marine has some SIERRA PST pipe sealant, doesn't say what it's made of though. Also, if I used sealant, would it be very difficult to remove the cap afterwards? Would Teflon tape be good enough? Oh and I managed to see that the large seacocks I want to cap are the Groco SV 1500. I searched online and couldn't find an exact size for this model. Any idea? I'm guessing 1 1/2". I also couldn't see much on the smaller ones, I tried to measure it and was about 3/4 to 1", estimate for the difference of the threading and I'd say 3/4. Does that make sense or no?

Sorry for the barrage of questions, thanks in advance.



Bud Taplin
(Member)

Any good pipe dope will work, and I suppose teflon tape would also work. The large seacocks are 1-1/2" pipe size, and the small ones 3/4" pipe size. They have a straight thread that will match the tapered thread of pipe, but a cap will not screw on as far. That is why you need to make sure you use a good sealant.


Randell 'Randy' Kocurek

Trick learned in the yard:
Remove 3M5200 with heat from a propane torch on metal fittings. If they are not metal fittings why use 5200?
My experience, is it does not take all that much heat as 5200 goes distintigrating a whole lot faster than metal or fiberglass.
Most importantly, you know you can get the stuff off. Very nice.
Probably need to try it once to get the picture.
The propane torches with propane bottles and torch heads still seem to run around $20. A must have.
Randy

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