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Thread: "Replacement Gudgeons And Pintals On Early W32"

12,268 posts on 2,444 threads   •   From Mar 07, 2004 - Jan 08, 2012


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Replacement Gudgeons And Pintals On Early W32

Robert V. Cooley Jr.

Hello Bud,

I just took off my rudder for the first time yesterday because I suspected corrosion problems on the Pintals and Gudgeons on my early version of the W32 and that is exactly what I found. This is serious and reading your manual on page D-8 you say that you could get an estimate of the cost of making some up. I need you to do this if you will.

I think my hull number is #103 or #104. She was previously named "Chop".

Saw an email on the WOA msg board about your becoming a grandfather. Congratulations, I became a grandfather for the first time in June and it is so much fun.

Thank You as Always for your help Bud.


email: wa4mqw@yahoo.com

Ryman and Suzanne Kay

I am also interested in a quote on the Gudgeons and pintals for my 1974 Westsail 32. My hull number is WSSF01660374. My email is enniskay@gmail.com. Thanks. Ennis

Bud Taplin

I have not had any of the stainless steel pintal and gudgeons made in the last 15 years or so. I usually recommend cutting off the straps that have electrolysis around the bolt holes, and welding on new straps to the existing ends of the fittings.
I guess I could get a quote on having some made, but I know the cost would be high, probably in the order of $250 each, and there are six of them.
If you have one of the newer rudders that have the pockets in the sides for a bronze pin, but have the stainless pintals, I would recommend switching over to bronze pins and fiberglass gudgeons. Westsail had to use up a supply of the stainless pintals and gudgeons after we made the new rudder design, so that is why some of the boats with the new rudders still have the stainless fittings instead of the bronze pins and fiberglass gudgeons.
If you have one of the original rounded bottom rudders inherited from Kendall, then you will need to use the SS fitting, or have some bronze ones cast up as some of the kit builders did.

Gary and Charlotte Burton

If someone is going to have bronze cast I would be interested as well....may keep the cost down.
I have the old rounded rudder and SS gudgeons and pintles

Gary and Charlotte Burton

Group buy?

Greg and Christy Johnson

I had my gudgeons and pintals fabricated by Svendsen's in Alameda Calif for $1800 and it included the silicon washers--Beautiful job.
Bud has the original drawings.

Gary and Charlotte Burton

What style did you have fabricated Greg.....do you have the older rudder?

Greg and Christy Johnson

Mine are the older exterior style along with the older style rudder.
My gudgeons and pintles were damaged almost beyond repair by corrosion which prompted the choice of new ones.
If you fabricate new ones take the old ones along with Bud's drawings to the fabricator to use as a pattern just in case the holes were drilled out of place

Joe Kovacs

Sea Breeze is W32 WSSF04740171. Her rudder has the pockets and the stainless steel pintals and gudgeons, as Bud describes. There have always been zincs on the gudgeons.

All of the pintals, gudgeons and bolts look to be in good shape, and a strong magnet says they're good Type 316 SS. During the last haulout, though, a sharp-eyed yard guy passing by stopped, and said there's corrosion on the hinges under the bolts. I took a bolt off and, sure enough, under the head and under the nut the bolt was eaten halfway through, and under the washers the SS straps were icky spider-webby. The washers were in good shape.

We might brighten up and say we're real lucky to have all them washers in such good shape after 34 years. Or we might say the factory-installed washers were Type 304 SS, and indeed a magnet found everything there to be non-paramagnetic except the washers, which were slightly paramagnetic. In which case we would also say Bleah!--galvanic corrosion!

Joe Kovacs
SV Sea Breeze

Bud Taplin

Galvanic corrosion can be a result of different grades of stainless. Use a bolt and regular nut, and stake the thread. Forget locknuts, washers, and lockwashers. Periodically pull out the bolts. I have seen some with a head of a bolt on one end, a nut on the other end, and nothing in between.

Robert V. Cooley Jr.


Can you tell me the approximate weight of the WS32 rudder on my hull # 103? I ran a line from the top of the rudder over the main sheet attachment loop to the port winch and cleated it. I then removed the bolts from each gudgeon or pintal that were bolted directly to the rudder and as the last bolt was removed the entire bottom of the rudder swung aft until the bottom was stopped by the ground. I am nervous about handling it further by myself until I know what weight I am dealing with.

Today, I took one set of gudgeons and pintals to the local steel fabricator to get an estimate of the repair or replacement of each. They were badly corroded where the bolts went through. I'll let all know what the estimate is in a day or so.


S/V Journey
W32 #103

Gary and Charlotte Burton

My rudder (hull 119) weighs about 200lbs
No water in it.

Bud Taplin

Those early rudders were filled with mishmash, which is a mixture of asbestos powder and resin. The later rudders are high density foam, and weigh about 75 lbs.

Alan and Sue Johnson

Bud: OK so now I have just read this whole thread and with my my Ws32 , Hull #36 it sounds like I will have corroded gudgeons & pintals, asbestos, extra weight, potential water intrusion, and a poor shape. I'll restrain from dumb questions until I get the rudder off and disassembled. Would you suggest I build a new one?

Bud Taplin

There should not be a real need to build a new rudder. Dry out the rudder you have, grind and sand the surface down to original gelcoat, seal any cracks with epoxy putty, then paint the whole thing with two or three coats of epoxy resin.

That should hold you for another 30 or so years.

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