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Thread: "Groco Connect To Anode??"

12,268 posts on 2,444 threads   •   From Mar 07, 2004 - Jan 08, 2012


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Groco Connect To Anode??

Rene Ekeheien

hi bud and fellow westsailers!
i have recently purchased a W32 with Groco seacocks. the seacocks are wired to two anodes on the hull (each about 4x6 inches, either side of the hull). the previous owner mentioned that he had wanted to remove them. any advice? i intent to replace all plumbing hoses and will ensure there are no metal reinforcements in the hoses so there should be no problems with conductivity through them.
i realize this is a debated subject in the sailing world but advice from anyone with experience would be great!!

Randell 'Randy' Kocurek

I have experience with your seacocks. I just bought my W 32 and the discharge head, Groco, was frozen open. All the others pleased to work after heavy, long lubrication and wiggling and stuff. Anyway, out of seven seacocks, they all worked except that one. That one was the only one that had lost its ground wire. Electrolysis had gotten to that one, and that one alone. It was seized up 8 ways to Sunday. I got her in the yard and dismounted and lubricated all very satisfactorily, but that one was shot, shot, shot. So, whatever you do, ground them all, in my humble opinion.
BTY some of mine are gounded to the chainplates in the head compartment. Does anyone have experience with that. Is it standard? Thanks.

Bud Taplin

If they are connected to the chainplates, sounds like someone wanted to use the seacocks as a lightning strike dissapater. Bad idea in my opinion.

Agreed that there is a big differtence of opinion on connecting all of the seacocks to a zinc plate on the hull. I believe that since a fiberglass hull is a good insulator, and if there is no wire in the hose connected to the seacocks, then the chance of electrolysis of a seacock is minimal. Bigger problem is not greasing them and opening and closing them regularly.

Rene Ekeheien

thanks randy and bud
i had a similar experience with the heads discharge, although it gave with a big of elbow grease. i bought some silicone grease, got in the water and stuffed in the silicone. seems to have helped a bit. i'm hauling out soon and will have all the seacocks looked at. i do try to open and close the seacocks regularly.
there is a nut on the side of the seacocks (not sure what its called right now). i tried opening the one on the heads discharge to inject some silicone there but water kept flowing in, so i think the rubber is too far gone...

Bud Taplin

If you have the Groco seacocks with rubber cones, then they have a Tee handle on the side opposite the handle that operates the seacock. If there is a nut instead, then you have seacocks with a bronze cone instead. I have an instruction sheet available that I can send regarding this design of seacock.

Terry Shoup

If I were to replace my Groco seacocks, should I go with bronze or Marlon?

Norm Rhines


I believe the nut you talk about is a freeze plug (removed when on the hard for the winter) there should be less than a cup of water in it, when the valve is closed and tightened with the tee screw on the back of the valve.


The bronze are tougher, as long as you DON"T get the ss Ball. Marlon are great as long as nothing heavy can hit them. So your answer is not which is better but which fits my need.

Lastly for the connect or not connect question.
I am not connected (seams to be working as I have had no issues on the insides of the thur hulls.) but if done properly connecting will work very well just make sure that the AC is seperate or you could have issues from you dockmates elec cord drooping into the water.

Best of luck and keep that water outside the boat.

Ryman and Suzanne Kay

I have just purchased Serendipity, a 1974 Westsail 32 with a Delaware registration showing HIN# WSSF01660374. I purchased the boat from Alan Ford. According to Alan the boat was formerly named Steadfast. I looked on the Stbd. stern for the hull identification number, but did not find it. Do you have any information or history concerning this boat? Also, do you know if this vessel was built in California or North Carolina. Ennis Kay

Randell 'Randy' Kocurek

The boat I recently acquired is a 1974, also. The former owner and I spent quite a lot of time searching for the factory serial number, but it was there okay. Stbd side, near the stern (a big area), exterior side of the hull, between the rub rail and waterline, small letters and characters. I believe North Carolina built boats are 3/8 inch characters. I would say to get some good light on it and give it a slow and thorough going over. Bet you'll find it.

Bud Taplin


The hull identification numbers are on the starboard aft end of the boat. If the numbers are about 3/8" high, then the boat was probably laminated in CA. If they are about 3/4" high, then it was a NC boat. However, since it has a March 1974 number, then the lettering may have been sent out from CA. Therefore, no telling if the boat was built in CA or NC.

Bud Taplin

Seacocks. There is a drain plug on the sidewall of the Groco seacock to open in the wintertime with the boat hauled out.
I personally do not like Marelon, as I have seen some where the ball swells slightly, and if the handle is forced, the handle will break off.
The whole key to the seacock problem is to open and close them regularly, and grease periodically.

Randell 'Randy' Kocurek

Ryman or anyone seeking hull I.D. nnumbers,
I did some measurements and seem to recall it is about 18 inches above the waterline and 12 inches from the stern of the hull (or vice versa, oops) where the hull ID number is on my 1974 W32. It is right in line with the boomkin stay on the starboard side.

Rene Ekeheien

hi everyone,
thanks for the feedback and ongoing discussion. "mico verde" is currently on the hard. i haven't seen the seacocks dismantled yet but am looking forward to seeing what the damageis, if any.
i could have made quite a dinner with all the shells that had settled on the hull... but that's what happens after a few years :-)

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