Westsail Owners Alliance - Thread: "Anyone Use A Rocna Or Manson Anchor On A Westsail Bowsprit"
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Thread: "Anyone Use A Rocna Or Manson Anchor On A Westsail Bowsprit"

12,268 posts on 2,444 threads   •   From Mar 07, 2004 - Jan 08, 2012


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Anyone Use A Rocna Or Manson Anchor On A Westsail Bowsprit

Rich Morpurgo

I would be interested in anyone who has played around with one of these rollbar anchors. I just can't see it fitting.

thanks for any ideas.

Aaron Norlund

Still curious about responses to this - We received three anchors with our Asia Marie; a 45lb CQR, 40 lb Danforth, and a 100 lb fluke style storm anchor.

I'd like to sell the Danforth and replace it with one of the new age anchors. I've spoken with people who love them and read the same.

But do they fit!?

Fair leads,
Aaron N.

J and Jenny

We have been using a Rocna, aboard the 64' Ketch on which we are crew, for the last two years and absolutely love it. I can't see how we'd get one to fit on our K32's wooden bowsprit either, but am so sold on the Rocna that I'm determined to figure something out. I'd miss the look of our wooden bowsprit quite a bit, but I'm considering switching to the W42 style tubular stainless bowsprit in order to get one to fit.

How far off center are the rollers on a standard W32 bowsprit? Might there be a way to set up a Double roller system that would store the anchor angled down, allowing it to self launch and give the rollbar enough clearance to sit under the platform while mostly clearing the sprit itself?

I'll try to post more details on our experiences with the anchor later on.

Jeff Matthiae

J and Jenny,

I can't say enough good things about Bud's Tubular stainless bowsprit. It's a great platform to work off of and opens up the foredeck, especially if you also get rid of the staysail boom.

I don't have a Ronca so can't vouch for that fit. I do have a Bruce 44# and an A100 Spade (19# Aluminum) hanging side by side with no interference. The Spade will self launch. The Bruce I need to get started angled down, which is not a problem since I need to go forward to remove my safety line anyway. Then from the cockpit I can lower the Bruce (my primary) with the remote switch that is on the chain counter.

One thing that you may want to consider if you change the bowsprit. I ordered my bowsprit and windlass, a Lighthouse 1501 DWG, at about the same time and then installed them almost two years later. In hind sight I should have payed some attention to the width between the two chain gypsies. It would have worked out better for the alignment if the bowsprit rollers would have been made closer together, if not side by side then staggering one forward. The way I compensated was to cheat the windlass to starboard for the alignment on the primary which is on an all chain rode. The rope wildcat on the port side works fine with the secondary which is mostly line with just 50 feet of chain. That chain I can either pull in by hand or put it on the port gypsy, although somewhat misaligned.

W32 #431

Aaron Norlund


I'd like to see a picture or two of your setup if you have it handy. I've not seen one of Bud's bosprits installed on a boat and don't know the differences in the rollers.

Thanks for your time,
Aaron Norlund

Jeff Matthiae


I'll post a picture in a few weeks. I've finally been working on replacing the caprail this summer and am working on the bow section now. Needed to take the windlass off and raise it so the chain wouldn't cut into the teak.


Debbie Maidman and Chris Burger

Why couldn't users of this type of anchor have some chocks made for the deck to secure the Rocna and simply lead the rode, chain etc., through the rollers and then bring the anchor up on deck and secure it in the chocks say somewhere up near the forward most part of the bulwark, then heave the anchor when required.

Jeff Matthiae


Sorry it took so long, I finally put the anchors back on last weekend. Can't wait to go anchor out again in a couple of weeks!!!

Here are a couple of pictures of the tubular bowsprit. Starboard side has a Bruce 44# and port side a Spade A100.

Obviously I'm not finished with the caprail yet. The back is done up to the chainplates. The rest of the forward section will have to wait until I relocate the chainplates along with moving the mast forward. Long story short is that the mast was originally stepped too far back....

I think Bud sells precut teak planks but since I was ordering teak anyway I just made my own. Most of the boards have Cetal Light with crushed walnut shells for a nonskid. The couple that really look bad (not bolted down yet) I tried the new Cetal Natural with Cetal Gloss on top. Definately won't use the Natural again. I may end up doing what a friend does which is to just oil the bowsprit boards. On the caprail I tried Circa 1850 Exterior varnish - Only got 3 coats on before it got to cold, but am real pleased so far. Need to get a few more coats on this spring and then see how it holds up.

With the help of a few friends installing the bowsprit was not a hard thing to do and only took a couple of hours. Most of the work was done before the actual installation. This involved sealing off all of the deck and hull holes and then painting. A chainplate must also be added for the innerstay. Link plates are used to lengthen the innerstay until it eventually gets replaced.


Jeff Matthiae

Forgot to mention that I've cut a 1/8" thick stainless plate for each side to protect the caprail. Just need to take them to a metal shop to get bent. When the chain is tight there is clearance but a slack chain or the anchor shank would make a mess of that new teak in a hurry.


Dave Kall

Wow! Did you get the extension on the LIghthouse to make that distance?

Aaron Norlund


That looks great! I didn't realize Bud had a bowsprit available that bolted outboard to the hull like his boomkin. I really like the "flat entry" and expanded platform. I'll have to ask him about the price for it and a chainplate.

As for the teak, have you been able to find a reasonably priced source for it? The cheapest I've found is about $18/bf, which adds up to a pretty penny when doing caprails and a bowsprit/boomkin pulpit platform. I'm in southern Florida. If we go that route and need to make a platform up, I might also look into plastic deck planks - supposedly they take nonskid well and last forever. Home Depot has them, but I've not looked to see if they're available 6" wide.

Boy oh boy, I like that bowsprit! Did it come with the bow pulpit as well?

And (last question), do you like your "bun hugger" mast pulpits? I'm debating which I'd prefer, or even if I want them; I've not been aboard a Westsail with any installed. I'm concerned it would force you to be too close to the mast.

Fairest leads and shady quarters,
Aaron N.

Jeff Matthiae


Lighthouse has got great customer support. When I initially installed it I didn't have the caprail on and had the windlass mounted on a 1-1/2" piece of teak. When I realized that I would need it higher for the caprail I took it off and figured out what height I needed. I called Lighthouse and they told me how to remove the down tube and had me send that and the shaft to them. I think the day after they received it they had the new downtube and shaft (along with the original) shipping back to me for just a very small charge.


I occasionally get an odd piece of teak locally but most of my teak I get from Maritime Wood Products in Stuart, FL www.maritimewoodproducts.com I buy all my teak rough sawn although they will mill or resaw to your specifications. I also used their Teak Installation Epoxy (similar to the stuff from TDS) and Teak Deck Caulk when installing the caprail. They have been great to work with, very helpful in picking out boards, I've never received any junk boards that you can get when ordering bundles... Last time I ordered, about a year ago, I paid around $18/bf It varies somewhat with the thickness. The 12/4 for the curved part of the caprail was quite a bit more. The newer Hunters around me have that synthetic teak and it is really hot in the sun. I've seen that quite a few people have started using ipe, I just really like the teak.

Bud really does a great job of supplying you with just about everything you need. The pulpit, along with all of the mounting hardware was part of the kit. The only thing I added was the teak boards, the LED nav lights and made teak spacers from my old boomkin wood for the forward mounting pads that are hidden in the pictures.

I played around with the location of the mast pulpits before drilling any holes. For me they are at a comfortable distance and I don't feel crowded to the mast. If they are to far away I think you would lose their benefit. As my boat is still in the project stage I haven't been able to give them a good test sailing, but on other boats that I've sailed on with mast pulpits I've always welcomed them. I chose the bun hugger design for a little extra support on a pitching boat.


Tom Crank


When I replace my caprails I am planning on using ipe. Similar durability to teak, a bit heavier though. The cost is substantially less.

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