Westsail Owners Alliance - Post: "Position Of Mast On Raised Step W32"
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Post: "Position Of Mast On Raised Step W32"

12,268 posts on 2,444 threads   •   From Mar 07, 2004 - Jan 08, 2012

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- Archived Message from Inactive Forum -

Jeff Matthiae

Tom, Bud,

I understand what you mean about not wanting to move the chainplates after painting. I just finished repainting the hull after glassing in all of those holes.

I have hull #431, a July '75 kit boat from the East Coast(?). In addition to the construction manuals it came with a few other Westsail blueprints. One of them is titled Critical Dimension. Amongst other things it shows the location of the mast step and chainplates. The drawing is dated 2-11-75 by A.P. Lynd. Can't quite make out the Rev.

The end of hull (bow) to mast center line is shown as 12' 8-3/4". Underneath it someone wrote in 13'0" which explains why may mast was to far back on the compression post.

It looks like the mast centerline lines up with the front edge of the main bulkhead.

A cutaway view shows the center of ALL of the chainplates 1/2" pin hole to be 3" above the top of the bulwark without the caprail installed. Easy for me as I have not yet installed the forward section of the new caprail. You may need to adjust for the thickness of caprail. They also show using a block of wood with a 1/2" bolt to get all of the chainplates at the same height.

Dimensions are shown for the center of the chainplate pin holes from the mast centerline. Also shown is the angle of the chainplate down from the top of the bulwark to the forward edge of the chainplate. They are as follows:
Upper: 1" forward, 95 deg.
Aft Lower: 14" aft, 97 deg.
Forward Lower: 21" forward, 93 deg.

I plan to put some painters tape on the back of the chainplates to protect the new paint if they rotate a little and step the new mast with just the top bolt in each chainplate. Once I'm in my slip and have the mast lightly "tuned" I'll drill the remaining holes (one chainplate at a time), remove the tape and install the chainplate. This is basically how Bud describes installing the split backstay chainplates. I think that for this drilling the top hole first instead of a middle one will make it easier to keep the pin location correct in relation to the mast centerline.

I'm a few weeks away from locating the chainplates. Need to build in the new compression post (stainless pipe replacing the wood post), finish the bottom and reseal the rudder (not happy with the dryout, I'll post about that and get Norm his dimensions next week or so). I had been planning to contact Bud and the mast builder to get their thoughts on the chainplate locations...so Bud do you know of any changes made to the dimensions over the years?

Good luck,
Jeff

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