Westsail Owners Alliance - Post: "Fuel Tanks"
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Post: "Fuel Tanks"

12,268 posts on 2,444 threads   •   From Mar 07, 2004 - Jan 08, 2012


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- Archived Message from Inactive Forum -


Hey Alan,
Yes, the idea of adding zincs really makes me happy. What I did, so far, is build a collar of ss hose clamp around the joint of the bronze deck fill pipe (Groco) and the aluminum tank with copper wire running to a good zinc. I am have two zincs, one per tank, to hook up. Intend to mount them on the aftermost bulkead/lazarette.
My tanks were apparently original galvanzized tanks with lead soldered joints. Plus, showed no signs of leaking after sitting around awhile. I had a lot of corrosion on the port fuel tank, top and bottom and think there might have been some tiny leak on the port tank, but I dunno. I don't have to worry about it because, despite serious professional contrary professional opinions that I highly regarded, I went with other serious professional opinions that I regarded equally highly, plus my own.

The way I see it, the ultimate question is:

"After all that work and mild steel fuel tanks that are 34 years old, are you really going to reinstall them?"

My answer was no. I suppose each of us will have to answer that question for themselves.

If you would like to purchase Satori's old fuel tanks they are available and looking pretty darn good.
My fuel tank shelves are fine. I can stand on all of them. No problem. Satori's are redwood plywood. Would hate to have to try to find replacement material of that grade.
No, I have no cover over my new fuel tanks, except I do KNOW that I have a waterproof seal at the fill fitting and o-ring (I believe both to be extremely important). We do have automotive undercoating plus several layers of industrial enamel paint (Rustosomething) on the new tanks.
I think Bud's tanks have a flat top.
What I can say I have heard from some reputable people (and I have no knowledge personally, ie. rumor) is that using the old steel tanks as a form for a fiberglass overcoating may work if:
1) one uses foam or something to make the seams invisible to the fiberglass edges (at the for and aft ends of the original steel tanks); and
2) the resin used for the fiberglass is not the typical boat laminating resin because it is not effectively resistant to diesel fuel (I dunno), and that one of the more expensive fiberglass resins may be.
Whoo. I'm beat dealing with fuel tanks.
Thanks Bud.

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